Layer Cake Log Cabin Quilt Pattern

Here’s a new twist on a classic log cabin block.  I used a layer cake and a 2.5″ center square to create  scrappy layer cake log cabin blocks.  I used a self binding technique to finish so no need for traditional binding.  That’s because I decided to split my blocks up and make four fall table runners in various sizes. Of course you can make one big quilt top using this method as well.

Before I begin I must say that I found this method and the measurements for this block here.  It’s from the Notes of Sincerity blog by Trish Poolson.

Materials:

• 1 Layer Cake (42 10″ squares)- I used Home For Harvest by Henry Glass Fabrics
• 42 2.5″ squares for the center of the block
• 2 1/4 yards of backing fabric
• Batting slightly larger than your finished quilt top(s)
• Number labels to keep the stacks straight.  I use Alphabitties from the Fat Quarter Shop

Cutting:

First cut the layer cake squares into 2″ strips.  If the edges are pinked (zig zag) use the outer edge for measuring.

Then cut the 2″ wide strips according to the diagram below.  The pink number is what that piece will be numbered in the log cabin block.

At that point lay out the blocks in numerical order.  Mixing up the fabrics to look scrappy drove me crazy but after two tries I was happy with each block.  I laid each stack out by number and went around pulling one piece at a time in order and laying it on my design board the way it would go in the block, making sure the colors and pattern were varied.  You could also separate light and dark colors and to one side of the block in darks and the other in light colors.  That is a more traditional way to lay out a log cabin block.

I was debating the fabric for my center squares between cream and orange.  I decided to take a cream charm pack 5″ squares and cut them into fourths to make up my 42 center squares.

To save time I chain pieced all 42 blocks one number at a time.  To do that I sewed the center square to the #1 piece on all 42 blocks.  Then the #2 piece went on the side of those two and so on until the blocks were complete. Finished blocks should measure 8.5″ squares.

Note on chain piecing: Be very careful about the order you cut the chain apart and press.  Be sure to always start cutting and pressing the last block you sewed first.  Then make a stack of the pressed blocks in that order so that the first block that went through your sewing machine is the last one pressed and ends up on the top of the stack.

Here are some progress shots at the halfway point of chain piecing.

Next is the layout.  I knew I wanted table runners of various sizes and I wanted everything to me scrappy and mixed up looking.  So I laid the blocks out and played with the layout on each table runner top.  Taking pictures is crucial to keeping that layout intact by the way.

Here are the finished tops with the blocks sewn together:

Binding:

I decided to use a self binding technique to I wouldn’t have to bind them the traditional way.  I love finding new ways to bind, it’s my least favorite part of quilting.  So to start cut the backing fabric and batting slightly larger than each quilt top.  Lay them out

So the layers will look like one stacked

Stitch around 1/4″ from the quilt top edge.  Leave a 4-5″ opening on one end for turning.

Then trim excess batting and batting.  Clip the corners without clipping the stitches.  Turn right side out and press.  Push corners out as neatly as possible.

Then top stitch around the edge.  I lengthened my stitch to a 3.0 and used a walking foot.  And since my fabrics had a large contrast I decided on using a light color thread in the bottom and a dark brown thread on top.  To do that just load a bobbin with a thread to match your backing fabric and thread the top thread to match your quilt top.

Then it’s my favorite part, “Quilt as Desired” so I went with a free motion large stipple meandering pattern.  Wash and dry for the soft crinkle effect.